Posted September 03, 2019 10:16:39 As a surfer, I always feel like I’m being put on a pedestal.
That’s because I love surfing, and I have a strong bond with the surfboard and all of the other pieces of gear that make up the world’s most popular form of recreation.
When I’m not on board, I can often be found surfing in the sun, on the beach or just out on the water.
For many people, this is the closest they get to their true love.
But for me, it’s something that’s been going on for a long time.
I started surfing when I was 12, but only started doing it for fun when I turned 19.
It was my first time trying a board when I moved to New Zealand in 2013 and it was my dream to try out a surfboard when I returned home.
I had been playing with my brother’s surfboard for a couple of years when I started experimenting with my new style.
After surfing for a few weeks in a different city, I decided to try the same surfing style in the same city, which is when I decided I wanted to start doing it on a surf board.
I’d been playing around with my surfboard before but had never done it on an actual board.
After some initial experimenting, I found myself getting really good results.
At the time, I didn’t even know that I had a big surfboard on my feet.
I was like, ‘Oh my god, this looks really good!’
I thought, ‘Wow, this thing is pretty damn big.’
I think when I got home I was quite shocked because I’d never been really good at it.
So I was pretty nervous to start.
It didn’t really take me long to get into it, it was just about getting my bearings and going for the waves.
I did the first wave of my first round of surfing at the end of the year, but I had some problems with my board and I was a bit rusty at the time.
So, a few months later, I had to try and get it to work again, so I decided that the second wave would be my second attempt.
I ended up beating that wave, but in the process I was kind of like, why am I doing this?
I just wanted to try it again.
I’ve always had a passion for surfing and it’s always been my passion.
I think I’m kind of a sponge.
So the second time around I tried to do it all in one go and ended up doing it in two.
I’m a bit scared to try another wave, because I don’t think I’ve ever done anything like that before, but the surf board is a real treat to me.
I love to play with it, I love the way it feels to be in the water, and it just feels great.
I can’t wait to get back out there.
I also like to think of it as a great way to spend some time with my family, because there are so many different ways to spend a day with family.
So now, every morning I wake up, I head to the ocean and I try to surf a lot of waves.
The way I think about it is I think of myself as a sponge, so whenever I surf I try not to take too much of a risk.
So that’s why when I’ve got some waves that I’m really good, I try and make it a little bit more challenging and try to go for the big waves as well.
But if I’ve done a few bad ones, I just let it go and I just try and enjoy it.
There are definitely things I can learn from my first wave, like I’ve had a few more waves where I’ve hit some big waves.
That was the best thing.
The next wave I tried was a little harder and a bit slower, but it was still fun.
I remember the last time I did that wave I was really happy.
I didn, however, have any fun afterwards, so it was really disappointing.
I tried another wave a few days later, and that was a pretty tough wave.
It wasn’t very fun either.
It felt like I was going to crash on my board, and the way the waves started to come together and I knew that I’d have to get up on my boards side, it just didn’t feel right.
So this time I was prepared and just tried to get a good wave going and see how the wave ended.
I definitely had fun, but just wasn’t as good as I wanted.
I just wish I had gone for a better wave and maybe did it a couple more times.
It’s definitely the hardest wave I’ve tried so far.
So when I did finally get my first big wave, I was very happy.
The first wave was a lot